When you hear the phrase “the history of Fukushima,” you probably think of Aizu. The Boshin War, the Byakkotai, and Tsuruga Castle—these are certainly iconic. However, in the Nakadori region, which runs north to south through Fukushima Prefecture like a backbone, another era unfolds—one that, though it may not have taken center stage, played a vital role in supporting Japan’s modernization.
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The Nakadori Corridor as an Intersection
Nestled between the Ou Mountains and the Abukuma Highlands, this corridor has served as a “passageway” for people and goods since ancient times. During the Nara and Heian periods, **Shirakawa Pass** was known as the gateway to the north. Rather than a military or political front line, it was a boundary where cultures intermingled.
During the Edo period, **Koriyama and Sukagawa** functioned as post towns, where the daily lives of merchants, artisans, and travelers intertwined. This land, where memories of daily life have accumulated rather than memories of battle—that is the original landscape of Nakadōri.
The Modern Era of Water
During the Meiji era, water transformed the destiny of Nakadori. The construction of the **Asaka Irrigation Canal**—Japan’s first public works project, carried out with technical assistance from the Netherlands—transformed this barren land. Koriyama grew into a hub connecting industry and agriculture. More than any heroic tale, it was the steady, painstaking work of surveying, civil engineering, and consensus-building that paved the way for the region’s future.
The Choice of a Town That Did Not Fight
If the history of Aizu is a story of “resistance,” then that of Nakadōri is a story of “endurance and perseverance.” The castle towns of **Nihonmatsu**, **Miharu**, and **Ishikawa** bear the weight of harsh memories, yet the practical wisdom of those who worked tirelessly to rebuild them still lives on today. Few heroes have left their names here, but it was the resolve to protect their families and livelihoods that shaped the very fabric of these towns.
“Quiet Progress” in the Wake of the Earthquake
Since 2011, the Nakadori region has not been on the front lines, but it has served as a linchpin for reconstruction and revitalization. Logistics, healthcare, education, and culture—it is often the unassuming roles that form the foundation supporting our daily lives. When discussing disasters, we should focus not only on the scale of the damage but also on the resilience that enables us to endure.
Exploring Fukushima on Foot or by Bicycle
A journey that traces the “lines” of daily life, rather than the “dots” of tourist attractions, is what truly suits the Nakadori region. Walk along the banks of the Abukuma River, gaze at the old road signs that remain, and have lunch at a local diner. Here lies a chapter of modern Japanese history that is never exaggerated.
This is not Aizu; this is Fukushima.
Yet Fukushima—essential to understanding Japan—is right here.